Herders and Hustai

This last weekend, I went with Joe and Liv to Hustai National Park.  Now, let me tell you a few things about this park and this trip:

1.  While it is only 60 miles away from UB - it took us three hours to get there.
2.  It is truly in the middle of nowhere - the tourist camp/park headquarters has a satellite phone for emergencies.
3.  Our "expert" guides had been there a combined three times (there were two of them).
4.  It got very cold again here. It was approximately 22 degrees - with a strong Siberian wind. Let's just say this - brrrrr.......

So, I'll begin this series of posts with a lovely photo of a local herder that greeted us on our way into the park.  Seriously - it's almost like some of this was done with props.

Onerous: involving a burdensome amount of effort and difficulty.

Our team was sent a very lovely care package - thank you, Charity - that is currently being held hostage. 

Seriously, it is amazing how crazy it is to get something out of customs.  You can see my lovely attached handwritten letter (it had to be written by me, by hand - little did they know that penmanship is not a strong suit).  Once the customs attorneys (yes it takes attorneys) review my letter and documents, they'll submit to customs agency. 

Depending on how that goes, they may or may not need a letter from the company vouching for me.  And then, once that is determined, I have to go out to the airport to the customs office and sign multiple documents and pay the taxes on what they determine is the value of the package.  And, because dealing with customs can be such a pain, they'll send a translator with me to help.

Now, I don't want anyone to get the wrong idea - I'm very appreciative of the package and looking forward to checking out the goodies - but what did they possibly think I was going to do with one box of treats?  Onerous.

I'm back......

Did you miss me?  After a short, but welcome trip back to the states - I'm back in Mongolia to finish out my assignment.  Part of my trip was work related as I got to travel with one of my Mongolian colleagues as we took several parliamentary journalists around Utah.  I'll not bore you with the actual work part of the trip, but a few photos/observations......

This is what represents a line at Chinggis Khan International Airport.  It's a bit of every man for himself.  Luckily there is only one terminal and if you just wait it out - there is still your assigned seat on the flight but it was quite a spectacle.

I flew on an earlier flight, but the journalists were delayed so we had to adjust the schedule.  This is our strategic planning session of what sites to go see and more importantly where to go for lunch.  Winners in both categories:  Temple Square and the Cheesecake Factory.

Not the Cheesecake Factory, but dinner at a Brazilian BBQ with the group.  If you've never been to a Brazilain BBQ - this is where men in festive outfits come around with meat (lots of meat) on swords.  It was a hit and a good time was had by all.   We actually convinced a waiter it was someone's birthday so the waiters would dance and sing at the table. 

And finally, we took a bit of a break in Park City.  Bagi and Ganzo and I took a quick drive up and had a lovely evening on patio. 











I have to say - it was a great break!  It was great to see folks (thanks, Dad, for driving to SLC) and I apologize to those I didn't get to see - but I'll be back soon.  Until then....  it's always sunny in Mongolia!

Gandan Monastery - Take Two

 Most of these photos are in the Gandan Complex, a little courtyard inside the main grounds of the monastery.  This is the Vajradhara Temple.

 This courtyard was one of my favorite places we went to see.  It was full of people just hanging out on a lovely Sunday morning. 

 I think this building is the actual Gandan Temple.  They were conducting services when we got there.  It was a little bit like clowns coming out of a car - this is not that big of a building and I think almost all 400 monks came pouring out. 

Feeding the birds...  lots of birds.... 

 Outside the library.

 I loved this little lady feeding the birds - she was adorable - but I have to say the massive flights of pigeons totally freaked me out.

 I was trying to take a sneaky snapshot of this little girl on the prayer bench.  Her mom was showing her how to use it.

Not a bad place to take a load off.

One last shot of the courtyard.

Here Comes the Sun

This is a little courtyard between Seoul Street and Peace Ave. in UB.  In the background you can see the State Department Store.  This place is completely weird.  It has everything, but it's totally Soviet-era shopping.  You can pick something, stand in a line to tell them you want it, go to another line to pay for it, pick up a slip that says you paid for it, and THEN you stand in another line to actually pick it up.  Oh how I miss Nordstrom....

It's the traveling crew again.  This picture cracks me up.  Also, you might be wondering whey there is a Beattle's statue in UB.  I've been told that they were quite important under the Soviets, the Beatles represented freedom and is said to have inspired the Mongolian youth to aspire toward freedom. 

Gandan Monastery

I got my tourist on this weekend, so I have a ton of photos to share.  I didn't realize how many until I started uploading.  So the entire day will likely be done in a few posts.  With that, let's get started with the Gandan Monestary.  The full name is Gandantegchinleng Khiid - but let's face it there is no way I'm ever going to be able to pronounce that. 

 Here are my touring buddies.  Felicity, Pam and Blandine - representing the United Kingdom, Canada and France respectively.  We decided that Easter Sunday was a good day to go and get our monastery on.

 The monastery is big - this is an important picture for perspective.  Actually, this is the largest monastery in Mongolia.  I'm told there are approximately 400 monks that are currently practicing here.  Also - size matters - you'll see what I mean when I get to a couple of the statues - this is about 6 stories tall.  The guide book had it in meters - but let's face it there was no way I was going to do the actual conversion.

 I should also confess that I know almost nothing of Buddhism - I have had every intention of reading more, but just haven't gotten that done.  Please forgive my complete inability to properly label things - if you know - feel free to include in the comments because who knows when I'll get that done.  Outside the main temple...

 I thought this was just a pretty shot.  There seems to be a lot of this sort of statue in front of things.  I'm certain it's significant - just not entirely sure what it is.  And - I should also point out that the sky really is that crazy blue. 

 Another temple.  This one had people practicing inside - although one of the monks spent a lot of time on his cell phone.  I just thought that was funny.  Also - when you leave a temple you have to back away - you are never supposed to turn away from the altar.  For the record that is easier said than done.

 Here is one of the largest statues I've ever seen.  Remember that temple that I mentioned was about 6 stories high?  This is what's inside and it goes all the way to the top.  There is an entire ger (yurt for the non-Mongolians) and everything from pans to gear for horses inside this statue.  This picture does not do it justice - this thing is huge.

 This is a smaller statue to the right of the altar.  Again, you'll have to forgive my lack of knowledge on the religion but I started out thinking this guy looked like he might be sort of happy but with a closer look - a little scary off the bat.

 This is to the left of the large statue - for reference - the small ones are about 1/4 of the large statue at the altar

 People paying their respects.

 On the front door of the temple.

 A prayer wheel.  One thing that I did learn was that everything moves clockwise - so people walk around the prayer wheel clockwise and send their prayers up into the heavens.  (Or at least that was what I was told by our volunteer guide - pictured below).

 This lovely fellow gave us a break on our admission to the monestary (oh - they don't actually charge admission, but we paid him a small fee for a brochure) - but he gave us a break because we are living in Mongolia.  I think he may have had us pegged, because each of us bought several paintings from him out of his trunk.  Fairly certain he is not a licensed vendor - but that was ok - I really liked his work.

 Standing guard in front of the monestary.

 More prayer wheels.

 More outside shots.   Oh and be warned this is only the first batch from this particular stop.

Monks and others outside after the service.

Art

 As I've been out and about there has been a ton of paintings, etc. that I keep snapping pictures of but haven't posted.  Here are a few.  Most of these are from the exhibit during the Mongolian Economic Forum, but the last one is a new one they just put up last week in the lobby of my apartment.


The first painting is supposed to represent democracy and how the Monoglian people have finally been able to speak out.

 I can't remember if this one had a special meaning, but I liked that the herder was taking a nap with his flock.

 This one was all about eyes being the window to your soul.  My photo does not do it justice, but each eye has a different scene.  Plus, it was colorful and I like that.

This is clearly a high-class work.  So high-class in fact that I am a contributing artist.  It was a collage of different pictures and sayings that was supposed to represent the future of Mongolia.  You might not be able to tell from this, but the cute picture of sheep just under the "O" were placed there by yours truly.  The Arts Council clearly thought I had talent - they were trying to sell this particular piece for 15 million tugriks (about $15,000).

This last one is the new art in my apartment lobby.  Again, the photo doesn't quite do it justice, but I like it.